Any water leak is bad, but there's a difference between a leak in a supply line vs. a leak in a drain line. Since supply lines carry water under pressure, any leak in a supply line can become a huge problem very quickly. 

However, supply line or drain line, not all plumbing leaks are noticeable. A slow leak can go on for months without anyone realizing it. Make sure you’re monitoring your utility bills for any unexplainable increases that might indicate a leak on the supply side. If you’re on city water, you can monitor your water bill and usage. If you’re on a well, it’s a little more tricky, but since your well pump needs electricity, if you notice an unexplainable increase in electricity usage, check to see how often your pump is running. 

Look for signs of leaks around pipe connections, fittings, and fixtures. Excessive white buildup around metal pipe connections or faucets could indicate a slow leak. If the buildup is hard and crusty, the white crud is likely mineral deposits left after the water evaporates. If it’s galvanized metal, and the white is powdery, it could be white rust. This is a form of corrosion that occurs on galvanized metal. 

Also, check along all exposed pipes for dampness. This could be a sign of pinhole leaks, although don’t confuse this with condensation on cold metal pipes in the summer. Pay attention to connections, the bottom of horizontal pipe sections, and horizontal pipe supports. (The metal strapping called “plumber’s tape” should never be used to support plastic pipes.)

And never ignore stains on walls or ceilings, especially new, unexplained ones. Even if there’s no plumbing fixture nearby, pipes travel through walls and can spring a leak anywhere. 

In addition to the piping system, check fixtures for leaks. A dripping faucet can add a lot to your water bill. Depending on the faucet, it might need a new cartridge, tightening of a connection, or replacement. Also, check around the base of all the toilets. There's a lot of debate about caulking around the base of a toilet. Some say yes, some no, and some say just caulk around the front. Always check your local building codes. Here, we're a fan of caulking all the way around the base of the toilet. 

If the leak is severe, hopefully, you’ve already shut off the water. Otherwise, place a bucket or other container under the leak to prevent damage to surrounding materials. Try to pinpoint the leak. If you’re a handy DIYr, you might be able to repair the leak, but keep in mind that shoddy repairs often lead to more leaks and an eventual call to a professional plumber. 

Repair drippy faucets. If you notice a toilet is leaking at the base, you likely need to replace the wax seal underneath. This involves removing the toilet, but it’s not a difficult DIY job. Otherwise, call a professional plumber.

Also, make sure your water shut-off valves work and the main water shut-off is easily identified if someone needs to turn it off quickly. When a supply pipe bursts, it can spray gallons of water in a very short amount of time. 

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Metals can corrode, creating pinholes and cracks. Plastics can become kinked or brittle and crack. Holes and cracks in water pipes = leaks. Both supply and drain pipes can corrode. While any water leak is bad, a leak in a supply pipe is more dangerous than a drain line because the water is under pressure. When a supply line breaks, water shoots out like a firehose. This is when you need to think quickly and turn the water off either at the fixture shut-off or the main water shut-off. If you can identify potential weak spots before they explode, then you can have that pipe replaced and save yourself a tremendous mess and expense.

Pipes can corrode on the outside or inside. Signs of corrosion on the inside of the pipe include discolored water and low flow. Cast iron and galvanized steel rust from the inside out, so you may only notice rusty-colored water or low flow. 

To check for corrosion on the outside of the pipe, look at any visible piping (under a sink, behind a toilet, or in any unfinished area) and check for rust, pinholes, pitting, or cracks. While most people are familiar with reddish rust, galvanized metal can develop white rust when the zinc coating wears off. When the coating wears off, the underlying steel becomes exposed, which can then form the familiar reddish rust. 

Other types of damage can be caused by external forces such as tree roots or excessive friction. Horizontal pipes often need support. There’s a type of metal strapping with holes in it called “plumber’s tape.” This can only be used on metal pipes, and is not allowed on plastic pipes. As water moves through pipes it causes a little movement in the pipe. Over time, the metal strapping can cut into the plastic pipe, causing a crack. Plastic pipe hangers should be used to support plastic pipes.

If you have copper pipes, you may notice that they’ve turned green around connections. This patina is called verdigris and is the copper oxidizing in the presence of oxygen and water. It’s not necessarily a bad sign unless it becomes excessively thick or widespread. Actually, a thin layer of verdigris protects the copper underneath from further corrosion. 

Other issues with copper include pitting from iron flecks in the water. If you have an old cast iron main water supply line, or your water heater is decaying on the inside, you can end up with small iron pieces in the water that settle on horizontal pipes and can cause pitting. It takes a long time to happen, but it can happen. There’s also a theory that this is hastened by improperly vented combustion appliances nearby.

If you have polybutylene (PB) pipes, those need to be replaced. (You can identify them by the “PB2110” stamped on the pipe.) A plumber isn’t trying to upsell you. PB pipes will eventually fail, and your insurance company will likely deny the claim. Check the fine print on your policy. Most companies explicitly exclude coverage for polybutylene piping leaks. If you have a claim and don’t disclose that it’s PB piping, well…insurance fraud is a crime in every state, and in some, it’s a felony.

Note about stainless steel braided supply lines: These are commonly used under sinks and behind toilets. Be aware that while many believe stainless steel won't rust, and therefore braided stainless steel lines are immune to corrosion, many of these lines are made with lower-quality stainless steel. Under certain conditions, they can rust and corrode. Chlorinated water and corrosive chemicals stored under a sink are often significant culprits. Small leaks around connections can allow chlorinated water to attack the stainless steel braiding, causing corrosion. A humid environment, typical in a bathroom or under a sink, can cause chlorine fumes from stored chemicals to dissolve into hydrochloric acid, which will corrode stainless steel. Another factor is high water pressure, which can stress the inner rubber tube of the pipe and cause bulging, stressing the stainless steel braiding. If you ever notice rust spots or small water leaks on this type of pipe, replace it immediately. 

If pipes are corroded, they need to be replaced. If you have corroded supply lines, replace those asap. If you have PB piping, contact a professional plumber, as that needs to be replaced. If you notice metal strapping supporting a plastic pipe, this needs to be replaced with a plastic pipe hanger. 

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A slow drain is certainly frustrating, but it can also be unsanitary. Waste can sit in pipes, and water can become stagnant, which creates a perfect breeding ground for bacteria and drain flies (small flies that love stagnant water). 

If your drains are slow to empty, the most likely cause is a clog. Clogs in bathroom drains are usually caused by a buildup of hair and soap scum, while in the kitchen, it’s typically grease, fats, or food particles. However, clogs aren’t always caused by stuff that goes down the drain pipe. Sometimes, pipes become clogged due to corrosion (galvanized steel and cast iron can rust from the inside out, potentially blocking flow), sediment buildup from hard water, or tree roots invading the underground sections of the pipes.

Sometimes, although not often, a slow drain is due to a blocked vent pipe. 

Try attacking a clogged drain with a plastic drain snake. If the clog is deeper, try a regular plumbing snake. If you suspect the clog is from something like a child’s toy or other small object that somehow slipped down the drain, you can take the P-trap apart, clean that out, and put the pieces back together. P-traps are usually connected with threaded fittings (i.e., easy to take apart). Be careful when using chemical drain cleaners. Don’t use acidic drain cleaners with metal drain pipes. If you have used drain cleaners and you need to call a plumber, make sure you tell the plumber. 

Very hot water may help, but be careful using boiling water in PVC drain pipes (white plastic pipes). ABS (black plastic) and cPVC (yellowish plastic) can take heat, but PVC can’t if it sits in the pipe for a while. So, if the drain is heavily clogged or blocked, don’t use boiling water on PVC pipes. Tip: Once a week, pour several cups of hot (not boiling) water down kitchen and bathroom drains as preventative maintenance. This can help prevent clogs by melting grease and soap scum.

If you have a slow-draining or clogged toilet that a plunger can’t fix, try using a toilet auger. A regular plumbing snake can be used, but you may end up scratching the porcelain bowl. If the toilet auger doesn’t help, sometimes, removing the toilet and getting better access to the drain is helpful.

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Gurgling drains usually indicate a clog. Sometimes, this can be due to a blocked vent, but more often, it’s a clogged drain. Since plumbing drains are typically interconnected, gurgling in one drain could be caused by a clog in another drain. 

Water hammer is a term used to describe the loud banging or knocking that can occur in pipes. It’s caused by a sudden change in direction of the water flow or when the water suddenly stops. This abrupt change generates a pressure surge, and the resulting shockwaves in the pipes produce the noise you hear. While the noise can be a nuisance, the larger issue is the stress that the pressure surge places on your pipes, fittings, and joints. (FYI, the larger the pipe diameter, the greater the pressure force. In large municipal water pipes, closing a valve suddenly can significantly damage the pipe.)

Water flowing through pipes causes them to wiggle. Sometimes, as pipes go through walls, that wiggling causes them to rub against framing and produce strange noises in walls, ceilings, or floors. 

Gurgling

Check for slow drains in all fixtures, even seldom-used ones. Try to clear suspected clogs. If that doesn’t help, it could be a blocked vent. If you’re comfortable doing so, check the vents on the roof. If it’s winter, a vent could be frozen or iced over, although vent pipes are supposed to be wide enough to prevent this. 

Water Hammer

Because the pressure surge is caused by a sudden change in direction or stop, turning a faucet off slowly can prevent it from happening. But appliances like a clothes washer or water softener have an automatic valve that doesn’t close slowly. To prevent water hammer, there are water hammer arrestors that can be installed on the pipe. This provides a “safety offramp” for the increased pressure.

Vibrating Pipes

If you can isolate the vibration and the pipe is exposed, you can add strapping, insulation, or other stabilizing material to prevent the pipe from rattling. If you can’t locate the pipe, and the vibration is too annoying, call a plumber. 

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If your faucets are spitting, air could be in the supply line. Other signs of air in the water include cloudy or milk-looking water that clears up after a few minutes or irregular flow. Water can get in through a few different means, such as recent plumbing repairs, leaks in supply pipes, a water filtration system, or if you’re on well water, a bad pump, low water level in the well, or a water-logged pressure tank. 

You can try to bleed air out of the system. This involves turning off the main water shut-off valve, opening all faucets to drain water out, then turning the water back on. If you’re on a well and you know the pressure tank is not water-logged or that the water level in the well is low, you could try adding an automatic air vent. Consult a plumber for info.

If you try to bleed the system and you still have signs of air in the system, contact a professional plumber.

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When plumbing waste degrades, it produces stinky smells - aka sewer gas. The smell can be annoying, but the gas is also dangerous. Some of the smelly stuff is actually toxic. If you have unpleasant odors coming from your drain pipes, sewer gas is likely seeping in. There are two main causes of sewer gas: 1) a dry plumbing trap or 2) a clogged vent pipe. 

If you’re on city water, sometimes the stuff they use to treat water can cause some strange smells. If the smell persists, have your water tested. Smelly well water can be caused by hydrogen sulfide gas (rotten egg smell), which is produced by sulfur-reducing bacteria found in groundwater and plumbing systems. It’s usually more noticeable in hot water as the bacteria love warm water. 

If you’re on well water, the culprit could be hydrogen sulfide gas, or contaminants seeping into the groundwater.

Pouring a few cups of water down the drain can fix a dry trap. If you still have odors, you could have a clogged vent pipe that’s allowing the water in the trap to be siphoned out. If you’re comfortable doing so, check the vents on the roof. If it’s winter, a vent could be frozen or iced over, although vent pipes are supposed to be wide enough to prevent this. If you still have sewer smells coming from your drains, contact a professional plumber.

For stinky water, you can add a water filtration system (or change your filter if you already have a system). If you’re on well water, you should have your water tested annually, more frequently if you have young children or someone in the house is pregnant or nursing.  

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Water pressure differs from water flow, but they both impact how water comes out of a faucet. If either is low, it can be annoying.  You might refer to them both as low pressure, and that’s fine. However, if you need to speak to a plumber, it’s helpful to understand the difference. 

Low water pressure (measured in pounds per square inch - psi) means the force of the water coming out of your tap is weak, even if a decent amount of water is flowing. Low water flow (measured in gallons per minute - gpm) means a smaller volume of water is coming out, regardless of the pressure behind it. 

Essentially, "pressure" is the force of the water, and "flow" is the quantity of water coming out in a given time period. Low pressure feels like a weak stream, even if the water is still coming out at a somewhat normal rate, and low flow is a very slow trickle, even if the water pressure seems strong.

Low water pressure can be caused by a leak in your home's plumbing or a disruption in your neighborhood's water service. If you have a pressure regulator, that could be malfunctioning. If the pressure is low from fixtures on a floor one or two above where the water comes in, pressure drops as water rises. This can be a 5 to 10 psi drop.

Low flow is usually caused by a restriction in the system, such as a clog. It could be a clogged faucet or something farther upstream in the system, such as corroded pipes. If you have a water filtration system, it could be a clogged filter. Or, it could be faulty water shut-off valves, or valves that aren’t completely open.

If your water pressure or flow changes (either suddenly or gradually), check all faucets inside and outside your home and compare hot and cold water. Note which fixtures have different pressures or flow. Also, look for any signs of leaks. Listen for running water sounds that may indicate a leak. If you have older galvanized metal or cast iron pipes, they could be corroded and blocking the pipe. Discolored water can be a sign of corrosion.

If only the hot water has a low flow and cold water is normal, examine your water heater for leaks or other failures. If the low flow is affecting only some faucets (both cold and hot water), this could indicate an issue with those faucets. Remove any filters or faucet screens (aerators) and check for blockages. Check that all water valves are fully open. If you have older galvanized plumbing, you may have restricted flow from pipe corrosion.

If you have a pressure regulator, pressure-reducing valve, or water filtration system, make sure it’s working. Check the filter on the filtration system. Replace if needed.

If you still have issues with low pressure or low flow, contact a professional plumber.

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In addition to looking for issues with the plumbing system that supplies and then drains water, you need to make sure water stays in the fixtures, or at least on surfaces that are water resistant.  For instance, water should stay in a bathtub, but if you have a 5-year-old playing in the bathtub, some water may end up on the floor. The bathroom floor is likely water-resistant, but water could seep into the junction between the floor and the tub. That's where caulking comes in. Caulking, or more accurately named sealant, is used to seal junctions between two water-resistant materials. For instance, junctions such as bathtub/wall, bathtub/floor,  sink/countertop, toilet/floor. The sealant prevents water from infiltrating the junction and seeping into areas that are not water resistant, like a wood subfloor.

What To Do About It
Check areas around bathtubs, showers, sinks, and the base of toilets. Look for cracked or shrunken caulk. Those areas need to be resealed, but the old sealant needs to be removed first. There's a lot of debate about caulking around the base of a toilet. Some say yes, some no, and some say just caulk around the front. Always check your local building codes, but here, we're a fan of caulking all the way around the base of the toilet.